Tuesday, May 27, 2008

Trip Report: Even My Toes Are Enjoying The Sunshine!


Here in the lovely Puerto Vallarta, Mexico soaking up the sun and the margaritas. This place is a good getaway for a long weekend. The Sheraton Bunganvillas Resort is nothing to write home about, and the water here pales much in comparison to the blue Carribbean Sea, but the breezy wind and the beautiful sunshine that greet me here make this visit worthwhile.

Puerto Vallarta has an old town that is both charming and touristy. Like Cancun, you will find an abundance of American restaurant chains here. Fortunately, there are local restaurants that are much better than the boring American crap. For an avant garde Mexican cuisine experience, I highly recommend Los Xitomates (www.losxitomates.com). The Mexican chef/owner had worked in several North American and European cities before deciding to return to his home country and be his own boss. The food here is muy delicioso. Another upscale restaurant that I like is called El Andariego (www.elandariego.com.mx). It serves traditional Mexican cuisine with a live Mariachi band. If you are in the mood for a tourist trap that serves good Mexican food (and margaritas the size of a birthday cake) , try Pipis (http://www.pipis.com.mx/). It has the tacky decors and at least eight pinatas hanging from the ceiling. Make sure to hit one on your way out. Just don’t hit one of the servers. They wear colorful outfits and some are on the rounder side.

One relaxing massage (legit nevertheless), two great novels (one about a guy who used to be a circus vet while the other about a woman who likes to eat and travel ), three fantastic meals, countless margaritas and sun-bathing sessions later, I feel like I have had a truly amazing weekend here. When advising me of the weather forecast upon my arrival at the hotel, the butler on my floor (another reason why my weekend here was fantastic) said “Senor Lim, it will be sunny all weekend. There will be so much sun here that even your toes will enjoy the sunshine!”. Fidel was indeed right. My toes are now burned and wrinkly like raisins. By the way, his name was Fidel Castro. Fidel’s parents must have hated him when he was born. Nitwit also told me that he named his son the same name, as if the beatings in the playground while growing up didn’t teach him enough lesson. But wait, Mexicans don’t have the same anti feelings towards the former Cuban leader as the Americans do. Both Fidel Sr. and Fidel Jr. should be fine.


Tuesday, February 19, 2008

Trip Report: A Good Weekend Trip to Barcelona, Spain


People who know me know that I love Spain. It's a country that has so much to offer, and its laidback I-Need-My-Daily-Siesta lifestyle is just something that us overworked folks here in New York need to adopt badly. This wasn't my first trip to Barcelona (in fact, it was my fifth). But (ok readers, get your barf bag ready) this was a trip I took with Thomas over Valentine's day so it meant something special to me. The last trip before this was a while back so I really looked forward to returning to Barcelona again.

Nothing has really changed in Barcelona, except that the Euro is much higher now compared to the USD and everything seemed so much more expensive to us. The weather was absolutely gorgeous when we were there, considering it was the winter month of February. It was sunny and cool with temperature ranging in the high 50s everyday. I tried to indulge in some clothes shopping but the sizes appeared much smaller to me now (that's how I like to put it. The real reason is that my body size has gotten larger over the years!). We went to some great restaurants and ate really well (and you wonder why I could no longer buy clothes in Spain). We also did some walking tours on our own in several neighborhoods and visited several museums and churches. A lot of places are closed on Sundays and Mondays so please keep that in mind the next time you visit this city and plan accordingly. I highly recommend getting the Frommer's Barcelona Day by Day guidebook before you go. It really is a useful guide.

The restaurants I highly recommend in Barcelona are:

1. Cal-Pep
Placa des les Olles, 8
* locals/tourists clientele

2. Taller de Tapas
Placa Sant Josep Oriol, 9
* locals/tourists clientele

3. Inopia
C/ Tamarit 104
* predominantly locals clientele so knowledge of some basic Spanish would help.

4. Cor Caliu
C/ Roger de Lluria, 102
* predominantly locals clientele so so knowledge of some basic Spanish would help

All in all it was a great long weekend trip. However, Thomas and I have decided to stay away from Europe for a while until the US Dollars strengthen against the Euro. Having to pay 50% more for everything is not fun.



Monday, November 26, 2007

Trip Report: 9 Days in Egypt


Egypt was a country I always wanted to visit. My interest in visiting the country was not spurred by the repeated viewings of Brendan Frasier fighting off mummies in "The Mummy" and "The Mummy Returns". It was spurred by the accounts of all my friends who traveled to the country and saw the magnificent temples and pyramids. When my friends and I were deciding on where to go for our annual Thanksgiving trip earlier this year, I suggested Egypt and everyone in the group agreed that it was a good destination. We shopped around for a local tour agency and decided to sign up for a nine- day tour with a local company called Lady Egypt (http://www.ladyegypt.com/). Representatives from this company were not only professional but highly responsive and services were rendered to our satisfaction (save a few misses which were not their faults but their partners'). After months of planning and anticipation, we set out to this exotic country armed with an entry visa and a suitcase full of Asian snacks and instant noodles. There were six of us in total - Alison, Joyce, Peter, Dede, Ein and yours truly. For the next nine days, we would visit many tourist sights in Cairo, Luxor and Aswan and cruise up the Nile River.

The flights from New York to Cairo via Frankfurt on Singapore Airline (SQ) and Lufthansa Airline were largely uneventful. Service and inflight entertainment on SQ were excellent as always. We had to stop in Frankfurt for 10 hours so we took this opportunity to eat some average tasting German food , did some shopping and rested up a bit. We left Frankfurt in the evening and arrived Cairo in the wee hours of the morning. Upon arrival we were greeted by our rep from Lady Egypt. We then had to queue up in the long lines of passengers waiting to pass through the three immigration counters in the international terminal. Cairo International Airport was a rudimentary structure lacking the modern facilities of an international airport. Fortunately the government is building a new terminal to accommodate the growing number of international travelers to the country. Upon immigration clearance, we were transported to our hotel to catch some sleep. The first thing that greeted us at the hotel (and at every subsequent hotel we had stayed during the duration of our visit) was a metal detector. Talk about safety reassurance. We were briefed by our Cairo rep the next morning on our tour itinerary for the next nine days. We were also introduced to our English speaking tour guide, Mahmoud Elkomy. Mahmoud (a common name in the middle eastern countries like John or Rob) was a very funny tour guide who possessed great knowledge about the country (he can be reached via email at mahmoudtourguide@yahoo.com if you are interested in using his service)

We spent the following week visiting pyramids, temples and cruising on the famous Nile River. Our schedule was pretty hectic. We had to get up at the crack of dawn to visit these sights before they got too crowded. There were also some destinations where we needed to travel in groups of buses/vans led by the police convoy. The goal of such mandatory practice was to protect the foreign tourists from any terrorist attacks. Ever since the Egyptian militants killed a number of tourists in Luxor ten years ago, the Egyptian government has taken extra caution in protecting the tourists visiting its country. If you have Caucasian tourists who are Americans on board a bus or a van, they will even send a couple of soldiers with machine guns to be on the same vehicle with them. Apparently anti-American sentiment runs pretty high here, and we have our current administration to thank for that. I pity our Canadian friends (especially the Caucasian ones). For fear of being mistaken as Americans, they have been taking extra effort to tell people where they are from by sewing the Canadian flag on their caps, clothes and backpacks. As for us, since we are all Asians, we told everyone that we were from Malaysia. We were very popular with the locals -- apparently they love Malaysia (I don't know why - same national religion perhaps?). This much I know -- they buy a lot of TVs that are imported from Malaysia, like Panasonic TVs.

If there was a good time to visit Egypt weather wise, it would be the month of November, January and February. The weather we experienced was simply amazing. Sunny and breezy with temperature ranging in the high 70s to low 80s during the day and high 60s to low 70s during the night. Weather warmed up as we traveled from Cairo (North) to Aswan (South). However this was also the peak travel season in Egypt so every tourist sight we went to was simply packed to the brim with tourists.

Of the places we visited, the most memorable ones were the Pyramids and the Sphinx in Giza, the tombs in the Valley of the Kings, the Temple of Hatshepsut, the Temple in Abu Simbel, the Karnak Temple and the Nile River. Each temple/tomb has its unique history (dating back thousands of years) and intricate wall carvings. The only regrettable part with the wall carvings was that many of them were chiseled out during the colonization era by the Christians and Catholics who regarded those cravings as evil or demonic. It was sad to see these cravings being ruined that way. Our tour guide Mahmoud was very detailed in his explanation of the history of each temple and the Pharaoh/God that it was built for. But I could not remember the names of the Pharaohs that Mahmoud mentioned, save one female Pharaoh, Hatshepsut. She is undeniably my new idol given what she did to claim her throne. To get to power she married her own half brother and to maintain power later in her life she married off her own daughter to her half-son (whom her late husband had fathered with another woman). If Hatshepsut's life was made into a movie, Angelina Jolie would be the best actress to play her.

While we enjoyed visiting the pyramids and the temples and seeing the famous Nile River, we found our three-day cruise on the Nile River to be a boring experience. Given the size of the river the cruise was not a big ship so it doesn't have a lot of amenities like a standard cruise ship. We love shopping (well at least some of us do) so it killed us to find out that there were only two shops on the boat. Luckily one of them sells jewellery. One afternoon while Alison and I were reading on the sundeck and Dede was napping, the three hardcore shoppers (Peter, Ein and Joyce) decided to check out the jewellery shop and ended up spending two hours there. By the second hour of their visit, they were already on a first-name basis with the shop owner.

The food in Egypt is nothing to write home about. Nevertheless we managed to find our meals enjoyable, thanks to Peter who brought a suitcase full of Asian snacks, condiments and instant noodles. There were a few things we liked when we were there however. The falafels were not to be missed. There was also a meal called "Koshary" that we enjoyed a great deal. Koshary is a traditional Egyptian meal that consists of a strange combination of macaroni, spaghetti, rice, black lentils, chick peas, garlic sauce and a spicy tomato chili sauce, all topped with fried onions. Talk about a low carb dieter's nightmare. It's a perfect poor man's meal -- inexpensive and tasty. Koshary is usually sold by street vendors but for the best Koshary in Cairo, go to "Abu Tariq". Just ask your hotel/tour guide and they will tell you where it is. Down your Koshary with a glass of fresh squeezed sugar cane juice. In fact Alison liked it so much that she downed three mugs of it in one meal. She even pushed Peter out of the way to get to the sugar cane juice but that is a different story.

While we truly enjoyed the sights and the weather on our trip to Egypt, we found the Egyptians' overly aggressive behavior in asking for tips to be a major turn-off. Everywhere we went (including the bathrooms), we would encounter the locals asking us for tips. The train attendant on our sleeper train reminded us that we should tip him generously before we got off the train. The guy who demonstrated to us on how to make pots out of stones asked us for tips even though we had purchased some merchandise from his employer's store. Known locally as "Baksheesh", tips are apparently the backhand economy of Egypt. The argument is that the locals don't make enough money so they need tips to supplement their wages. From what I was told asking for "Baksheesh" is a common practice in Egypt and other North Africa countries. That's bull if you ask me. Look, I have been to other poor countries like Vietnam or Cambodia. While the locals in those Southeast Asian countries will try to sell you their merchandise in an aggressive manner, they will not stand there and just ask you for money without offering anything to you. To me asking for tips out right just comes across as greedy and rude. Anyway, here is a guide to how much you should tip when you are in Egypt:

Travel company's representative in each city 20-30 Egytian Pounds
Tour guide 40-60 Egyptian Pounds per day (more if you have group with more than 2 people)
Drivers 20-30 Egyptian Pounds per day (more if you have group with more than 2 people)
Cruise Staff 20-30 Egyptian Pounds per travelling member
Toilet attendant 1 Egyptian Pound per use

At time of writing, 1 USD equals 5.5 Egytian Pounds. When in doubt about how much to tip, always ask your tour guide. He/she can give you some guidelines to fair tipping.

Aside from having to tell off some locals for their overly aggressive behavior in asking for tips, we also had to fend off the annoying little Egyptian kids who would not leave us alone. It was our luck to encounter hordes of school kids on field trips everywhere we went. They saw us like they had never seen Asian people before. We were fine by those who asked us where we were from or what our names were (you know, little kids and their curiosity). But some crossed the line by touching our hair or chasing after us. Even the mild mannered Joyce started telling some kids off on the eighth day of our trip, and she was the one who chastised the rest of group for being mean to the kids at the beginning of the trip. Me? I just toyed with the kids who asked me questions or the locals who asked me for tips. I had to indulge in some harmless fun to keep myself amused instead of getting aggravated by these behaviors.

Female travellers are advised to dress conservatively when visiting Egypt, but it appears that some female travellers from the Western countries, especially those from Poland, did not get the dresscode memo. The way these Polish girls dressed would put Mariah Carey in her crazy days to shame. To prevent drawing any unnecessary attention, the four ladies in our group all dressed conservatively. However given Dede's darker skin, she would still get ogled everywhere she went. Apparently Latinas are very popular in this part of the world (which explains the fascination of Egyptian men with Shakira) and Dede looked like a Latina, even though she is Asian.

To be fair, all these nuisance aside, Egypt is still a country worth visiting at least once in your lifetime. After all, this is the country where you can see the last Seven Wonder of the World, The Pyramids, and ancient temples with carvings on the wall that explain in great detail the relationship between the Pharaohs and their Gods/Deities. All of us had a great time on this trip. We laughed a lot (most of the time it was on the expense of poor Ein). We also snacked a lot (to the point where Mahmoud said he had never guided a group that ate as much as us). Most importantly we saw the historic temples and pyramids that we would remember for life (but if our memory ever fails us we have the 1000+ pictures we took on the trip to jolt back our memories). We felt that the nine days we had spent in Egypt just flew by quickly, except for the three days that we had to spend on the cruise.





Wednesday, September 5, 2007

Trip Report: Believe It or Not, You Can Actually Relax in Cancun


Despite its well known reputation for being a party town, Cancun can actually be a place to relax and unwind over a long weekend. That is if you go during the off season when pesky college students are nowhere in sight. Of course there are the hurricanes and heat to worry about, but if you luck out and mother nature is on your side, you will actually find Cancun highly enjoyable.

Cancun is like an American outpost. Here you can see restaurants like Outback Steakhouse and Bubba Gump Shrimp. Dining is quite an expensive activity here. Restaurants in Cancun, especially those charge American prices and some seafood restaurants even charge prices that are similar to those at a 5-star restaurants in NY. Besides the familiar restaurant brands located on the hotel strip, you can find a long list of hotels that Americans are familiar with, such as the JW Marriott and the Omni Hotels. I highly recommend the Le Meridien Resort and Spa. It features three great pools overlooking the blue Caribbean Sea. The rooms are also quite sizable and the spa/gym facilities are top notch.

For sightseeing, I recommend visiting the ancient Mayan sites such as Tulum and Chichen Itza. An all inclusive day trip to these destinations will cost you about USD$60-$90. The tour to Chichen Itza actually includes a lunch buffet near the Mayan site. But the food is nothing to write home about, and the traditional Yutacan dance performed by the locals as your chow down your tortillas and refried beans is just an attempt to get more tips from the tourists.

In short, Thomas and I really had a relaxing time there. Aside from visiting the ancient Mayan sites, we spent most of our time at the gym/spa and in the pool. Choosing the right resort, and having some luck on your side (as far as weather is concerned) are key to enjoying your stay in Cancun.


Friday, June 8, 2007

Trip Report: A Long Weekend in Taipei


I had been to Taipei about 15 years ago. It was just for a one night stopover en route to the States so I could not remember a lot of things. All I could remember were the various dance clubs my cousin took me to and the chinese restaurant that served us mediocre tasting dim sum at 2 in the morning. Since I was in Malaysia visiting my folks last week, I decided to spend a long weekend in Taipei. My significant other was there visiting his family and offered to put me up at his parents' home and played tour guide to me.

To many who have not been to Taiwan, their first impression of Taiwan would be its ongoing fight to become independent from China. Some may also recall the scenes of Taiwan's political leaders fighting in parliament that they previously saw on TV. Oh believe me, the fights are vivid and entertaining. Women pulling each other's hair and clubbing each other with their high heel shoes while men strangling each other and kicking their opponent below the belt. It's better than the fights on WWF. The locals attribute these behaviors to the evolvement of a full democracy. I think it's sheer crassness.

Taipei is the capital of Taiwan and is home to approximately 6 million people. The city is known most recently for housing the tallest building in the world, Taipei 101. The claim remains valid until Shanghai finishes building another one (god when will this competition of constructing the tallest building ever end?). It is also known of its 24 hour bookstore (Eslite Bookstore), street food and natural hot springs. In terms of must-see tourist sights, there is the National Palace Museum that houses 650,000 Chinese artifacts and is undoubtedly one of the greatest museums in the world, and the Chung Cheng Memorial Hall that the Ministry of Education has recently petitioned to change its name (to Taiwan Democracy Memorial Hall) and remove the Chiang Chung Cheng statue. Way to alter history, buddy!

While the restaurant cuisines here in Taipei are mediocre at best, the street food is creative and scrumptious. Salt baked chicken, stinky tofu (not for the faintest of hearts), rice ball, silky soy milk and little tomatoes with prunes sandwiched in them. The best place to get these street foods is the night market. There are a few notable ones, such as the Shihlin Night Market and Huahsi Night Market. Just ask the local and they will direct you to the closest night market. I gained at least 5 pounds after downing a few rice balls and several bags of salt baked chicken. I have to say that the stinky tofu was really hard on my nose and had a gagging effect. Some restaurants even serve stinky tofu shabu shabu here. I cannot imagine sitting infront of the stinky tofu pot for a few hours. If you want to try traditional Taiwanese cuisine restaurant style, check out Shin Yeh restaurant. It has 5 locations in Taipei. Just go to www.shinyeh.com.tw for the address of the locations. Unfortunately the site is written in Mandarin.

A visit to Taipei would not be complete without a visit to its natural hot springs. Thomas and I went to an upscale one called Spring Park Urai Spa and Resort (www.springparkhotel.com.tw) which was located about an hour drive away from the city. The admission fee was TWD850 which was about USD26. They also offer massages at reasonable rates. It has separate men and women facility and has beautiful decors with several large indoor and outdoor pools. It's worth an afternoon visit.

All in all, Taipei was a good destination for a long weekend trip. My only regret was that I did not see the political leaders duking it out live. With the presidential election coming next year, I am sure there will be many more hair-pulling and fist-blowing moments to come in the parliament. Until then, I have this website to tie me over. (http://www.freerepublic.com/focus/f-news/1500459/posts). So China, would you grant this little island her very own independence?



Friday, December 29, 2006

Trip Report: Looking For My Maddox in a City That Recently Discovered Tourism


I idolize Angelina Jolie. Ever since she got out of her crazy phase, Santa Angelina has been involved in many kids related charity projects. It all started after she adopted her son Maddox. A native from Cambodia , Maddox has brought out the full maternal instinct in Angelina. That little boy with a Mohawk hairdo inspired Angelina to ditch her erratic and weird behavior and do good things such as saving the unprivileged kids around the world. Angelina also scored a really hot husband along the way and recently had a baby with him (Buddhists call this good karma). Contrary to Santa Angelina, I am mean and have been repeatedly admonished by my friends that hell has a welcoming fanfare waiting for my arrival. Seeing how a Cambodian kid has transformed Angelina and what good karma she has inherited by doing good, I decided to pay this developing country a visit and get myself a Maddox. I chose Siem Reap, the small provincial capital that discovered tourism not too long ago.


Siem Reap houses the Angkor Archaeological Park that puts her on the world tourist map in recent years. Designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, Angkor Archaeological Park encompasses dozens of temple ruins, including the legendary Angkor Wat and The Bayon Temple. The discovery of tourism in Siem Reap has created a lot of job opportunities for the war-torn and impoverished country. Presently a lot of hotel conglomerates are constructing their hotels in this small capital and there is an increasing number of Cambodians moving south to seek employment. I applaud the government’s effort to grow the country’s tourism industry. Had it not been for the booming of this industry in Siem Reap, the unemployment rate in Cambodia would have been much higher than its current estimated 40% rate.



I arrived at The Siem Reap international airport. This airport reminds you of the one showcased in the old sitcom “Wings”. The airport had only four gates. There were no custom officers at the exit point to collect your custom declaration forms. This was clearly an airport that you can hop in and out off easily, without having to arrive two hours before the flight departs. Upon exit there was a representative from Le Meridien Angkor waiting for me. For those of you who seek a luxurious five star accommodation, I highly suggest the Le Meridien Angkor (www.starwood.com). At a peak season rate of only USD185 per day, it includes a night stay at the beautifully decorated and spacious Angkor style room, breakfast buffet, a daily fresh fruit plate, daily appetizer- teasers from the hotel’s world-class Indochine restaurant (delivered around dinner time to get your taste bud going) and service that would make you feel like a royalty. Nowadays, this rate can only get you a room at the Comfort Inn in Manhattan.



I hired a driver (for USD25 a day) and an English speaking tour guide (for USD20 a day) to take me to the temples. During the peak travel season in Siem Reap, it’s best to see the temples between 6am-9am and 3pm-6pm. There are fewer people and the temperature is very comfortable then. Also the best month, temperature wise, to visit Cambodia is from December to February. Avoid going during the rainy season of July and August unless you like to experience endless perspiration induced by the intense humidity and the scorching sun. Indrea (my tour guide) took me to many temples, including the famous Bayon Temple and Angkor Wat (sunrise view at Angkor Wat is a must see). He did a good job explaining the history of these Hindu and Buddhist temples that were erected in the 13th and 14th century. He also did a great job in taking my photographs. As a solo traveler, it is always handy to have a tour guide to take your photographs. No more of those self taken pictures with the face making up at least half of the photograph (in my case it would be almost all since I have a pretty big head). We visited a great variety of temples. I was elated when we visited the Ta Phrom temple since this was where Angelina shot her “Tomb Raider” movie. I thought by following her footsteps I actually could end up leading the life that she currently leads. I would have to shed at least 80 pounds first. Upon arrival at every temple sight rest assured you will be greeted by a bunch of persistent kids selling you postcards, bracelet and other souvenirs. No more than 6 years old, these adorable kids are multi-lingual when it comes to phrases like “do you want to buy?”, “very cheap” and “where are you from?” They are quite the future entrepreneurs I may say. If Angelina had not picked Maddox for the adoption, he would be one of these kids running around selling you picture books of Angkor Wat.

After getting a tad templed out, I opted to take a boat trip to see the floating villages in Tonle Sap Lake . Located just 30 minutes south of Siem Reap, the Tonle Sap Lake is one of the largest fresh water lakes in the world. It swells anywhere from 2500km to 12000 km in the wet season. Floating villages are located along the side of the lake and the community in general is very poor. I had not seen so many kids running around naked before, since their parents could not afford clothes for them to wear. I intended to kidnap one back as my Maddox, but that notion was quickly dismissed by my tour guide, citing imprisonment and death sentence as the possible consequences to my action. The water in this lake is very important to the villages, as they use it to do their businesses as well as… ahem… bathe in it. During the boat ride, I passed by a house where the mother was dipping the bottom half of her baby into the water for a bathroom break, and two houses west of that house, a sarong clad woman was bathing herself with the river water that flowed westward.

The cost of travel is generally very inexpensive in Cambodia . A meal at a nice restaurant in the tourist trap area, Pub Street, would set you back by USD5-10 (three courses with beer). A tuk-tuk ride (there are no cabs here) would set you back by USD2. Clean and small hotels run at USD20-25 per night. Cambodian food (the locals call it ‘Khmer Food’) is very similar to Thai food. But it has a blander taste than the latter. One of the famous traditional Khmer dishes is known as ‘Armok fish’. It looks like the Thai green curry dish minus the spiciness of the famous Thai dish. One restaurant I highly recommend for good ‘Armok Fish’ is ‘Khmer Kitchen’ located on Pub Street. They also serve other scrumptious dishes such as the stir fried morning glory with chili paste which is a popular Southeast Asian dish. For handicrafts and jewellery shopping, head out to the old market. Remember to always bargain and offer 30% of the quoted price (settling for no more than 50% of the price). While it is generally safe to travel in this country now, not all landmines have been completely removed so travelers should not veer off to any forest or deserted lands when they are biking to the temples. Travelers should also be savvy. Like anywhere else, there is a fair amount of pick pockets in the city that target especially the tourists. Nevertheless I felt completely safe when I was here.

Good news avid massage fans! The quality of the massages here are on par with those offered in Thailand and the prices are much cheaper than those offered in Thailand . A 60 minute massage at a shop (clean and legit one that is) costs only USD18-20. The same massage offered at a five star hotel spa, such as the one at Le Meridien, would cost you double – about USD 38-40. In New York City I can’t even get that rate at the massage parlors in Chinatown . I highly recommend a place called “Body Tune” if you want a good massage in the old market area. Originating from Thailand , this massage and spa chain opens daily from 10am to 10pm and offers a variety of massages. A one hour massage costs USD18-20. Tel: 063-764141. Website: www.bodytune.co.th

Like Thailand and Vietnam, Cambodia has recently become the playground for male pedophiles who traveled from western countries in search of some easy and repercussion-less fun. Fortunately, the Cambodian government has taken actions against this sickening activity. They have imprisoned over 1000 foreigners for a jail term up to 20 years. In fact, the back page of Siem Reap’s official travel guide is a full page warning reminding travelers that engaging in sexual activities with children is a crime. Good for them! I am enraged at these perverts who think they can get away with their sickly behaviors just because they are in some impoverished developing countries! Send them to jail. Better yet castrate them and make them into eunuchs.

Three days are a good enough time to spend in Siem Reap. Frankly there is not much to do after three days. For me I had seen all the temples, visited all the important sights, ate all the food I needed to try and even had a relaxing spa treatment. But I had not found myself a Cambodian kid. Oh well, doing good, as well as marrying Brad Pitt, are both quite overrated. I am perfectly content with the infernal welcoming fanfare that is awaiting my arrival. At least it will be a hot party.




Tuesday, November 28, 2006

Trip Report: In The Footsteps of Bartholomew Dias, But We Made It Further In Than The Cape of Good Hope.


Being the early planner as always, I planned our trip to South Africa nine months before the departure date in mid November. After a handful of people dropping out and a few others replacing those who dropped out, the final number of participants taking this voyage was eight. These eight courageous individuals were Dede, Olga, Irene, Ein, Alison, Dave, Peter and myself. Our itinerary included a 3-day safari visit to Kruger National Park and 6 days of rest and relaxation in Cape Town. For months we were prepping ourselves for the trip. We took shots and/or medications. We bought disposable toilet kit for those who could not control themselves upon the sight of wild animals. Some of us even drafted up detailed wills for our family members and closed ones just in case we ended up as the lions' special of the day.

The South African Airways' flight over to Johannesburg was largely uneventful, save the camera theft incident I unfortunately got to experience when the airplane stopped in Dakar, Senegal for a brief refueling and cleaning. Passengers did not have to leave the airplane, but they were allowed to move around in the plane. I left my two books and a camera in the side compartment of my seat and went to the lavatory. I came back to my seat three minutes later and the camera was gone. According to the passenger next to me (who happens to work in the same company as I do -- what a small world), one of the cleaners came to my seat and played with my headset (which was plugged on top of the side compartment where my camera was placed). I notified the pursor immediately and a thorough search was conducted. Needless to say, my camera was no where to be found. It probably had made its way to the border of Guinea when the authority was conducting a bodysearch on all the cleaners. Somewhere in East Africa now, people are admiring the pictures of two Asian men posing infront of bonzai plants taken during a bonzai exhibition in New York City this summer. Readers, be careful when taking South African Airways since theft is a pretty common activity on their flights and airports!!! Upon arrival in Johannesburg we checked into an airport hotel nearby for a good night's rest. A 5- hour drive to the Nambi gate of the Kruger National Park was awaiting us the next morning.

Our driver Tabo picked us up the next morning at the crack of dawn. He was a friendly and pleasant black guy who told Olga that he married his current wife because he did not want to cook his own meals or do his own laundry. Seeing that he was manning the wheel of a 10-seater van and that our safety was at his mercy, Olga bit her lips hard and reserved her comments. Tabo also asked me the difference between a Japanese and a Chinese. Apparently he was not the only one who asked this question. One of our tour guides in Cape Town posed the same question to me, and the lady who worked at the SAA reservation desk also asked Alison the same question. Normally I would have thrown out a few punches if I were asked this question in New York, but this was South Africa, and there were not many Asians here, save the businessmen and the few immigrants who ran restaurants in the major cities. So I explained to Tabo patiently that a Japanese greets people by saying "haro" and a Chinese greets people by saying "halo" (poor gullible Tabo bought it). Oh yeah, they also have different last names. Lame answers but I was not ready to take him through thousand years of history on my vacation.

We had our first safari drive upon arrival at Kruger National Park and did not see a lot of animals. Our luck started to pick up with the morning drive in the second day. We saw impalas (too many of them in fact!), kudus, elephants, zebras, lions, water buffalos, rhinos, hyenas, wild boars, leopards (from far) and other animals too insignificant to remember. We even saw two cheetahs that were quite uncommon to spot. You can tell that there were very few animal lovers among us when the questions posed to our lovely safari guides (Godfrey and Lucky) included the following:

"Are ivory chopsticks inexpensive here?" (when we spotted elephants)

"Do they make buttons out of these animals?" (when we spotted kudus)

"I heard they make great make-up brushes!" (when we spotted a rare kind of badger)

"Oh this would make lovely furniture fabrics!" (when we spotted zebras)

Aside from seeing these incredible animals, there were some anecdotal moments during our three-day stay at Kruger. Peter and I were chased by a monkey when we pointed at it and made fun of it. Ein was too busy shopping and nearly missed one of our drives. Dave and I contemplated urinating into an empty bottled water during our night drive since it was over three hours long and offered no bathroom breaks. After three days of spotting animals and eating bad camp food, all of us, except for Irene and Dave who extended their stay at a private game reserve, decided it was time to leave. On the day of our departure, I had never seen Peter and Dede so excited before. Tabo drove us to the airport so that we could catch our flight to Cape Town.

A friendly guy named Jaco greeted us upon our arrival at Cape Town. Cape Town reminds me a whole lot of San Francisco. Home to approximately 4 million people, Cape Town is one of the world's prettiest cities. There is not a whole lot to see in the city but some of the sights you have to visit include Table Mountain, Robben Island and The Malay Quarter (Bo Kaap). The best way to see the city is to take the 'Topless Bus' which costs R100 per adult and the rate comes with multiple hop on and off privileges. Despite its name, the bus does not require you to take off your shirt to be on it. I tried and the tour guide threatened to throw me off the bus. For Robben Island, visitors have to make the reservation in person and the wait for the next availability is at least 3-4 days.

We were supposed to stay in a lovely B&B called '79 on Orange' but the renovation was not done in time so the owners Marc and Ivan put us up in a luxury condo in Camps Bay. Our units had the view of the ocean. We were also very spoiled since Marc and Ivan arranged for their help, Pumala and Clifton to make us breakfast every morning. They were such nice and warm people. Pumala was so motherly that Peter and I just wanted to give her a tight hug. Unfortunately, the task of doing so seemed highly challenging and daunting (to us gay men at least) as there were physical obstacles in our way. Even though we could not stay at 79 on Orange, Peter and I did make a visit there and we had a drink with Marc and Ivan. The home was beautiful and the location was good. I suggest that you stay there if you are in Cape Town next (http://www.79onorange.co.za/). If you do please send my warmest regards to Pumala and give her a big hug for me.

There are many great restaurants located in the VA Waterfront area and along Victoria Road in Camps Bay. They offer a variety of food and are very affordable if you are spending US Dollars (especially with the wines). Some of the restaurants I recommend in Cape Town include:

1. Nando's (a chain with multiple locations - http://www.nandos.co.za/)

2. Blue (great seafood restaurant in Camps Bay - www.blues.co.za)

3. Summerville (another great seafood restaurant in Camps Bay - www.summervillerestaurant.co.za )

4. Taiwan City (Chinese restaurant offering authentic Chinese cuisines - located in the biggest mall in Cape Town known as 'Canal Walk'. You can never go wrong with this place since they cater to the Mainland Chinese tourists that arrive in droves every night)

5. Africa Cafe (only if you want to try African food in a touristy setting - http://www.africacafe.co.za/)

Many travel guides say that Cape Town is home to a thriving gay scene. Peter and I beg to differ. There are only three gay bars here (two of which were named "Manhattan" and "The Bronx" incidentally). There are more gay bars located on 8th avenue between 14th and 23rd street in Chelsea than the entire Cape Town combined. I guess it is all relative.

We signed up for several day tours when we were in Cape Town including a visit to the Stellenbosch wineries, Cape Point and Hermanus Bay. South African wines are becoming increasingly popular in the US, and we visited three wineries on a bright sunny day and purchased a few bottles of good wine. The sceneries in Cape Point were breathtaking. The tour included a quick stop at the ostrich farm and a stop at The Penguin Colony to see those cute little furry animals. Peter and I were busy spotting our "sistas" but there were too many to tell which one was gay. We also went to Hermanus Bay for whale watching (and I don't mean looking at myself in the mirror as I take a bath in my bathtub). Even though It was the tale end of whale watching season we wanted to try our luck. We spotted a few whales from the shore. Olga, Dede and I also took a boat trip and we saw more whales -- in fact they were really close to the boat and one actually swam under the boat. We really lucked out. Bet you did not know that Hermanus is the only town in the world with an official 'Whale Crier' who wanders the street with a sandwich board and a kelp horn. He blows his horn whenever he spots a whale. I think the 'Whale Crier' I encountered blew his horn when I walked past him.

South Africa is a very interesting country. Even though the apartheid system has been abolished, segregation is still commonly practiced among the races. They don't mingle with each other that much. In Cape Town, we barely saw any black people. The areas that tourist go are mainly inhabited by Caucasians. Unless you make a visit to the townships, you will not see a lot of black people. I laughed so hard when Ein asked me while we were dining on Victoria Road in Camps Bay if it was safe to walk back to our condo since there were a few black kids hanging out across the street from us. I laughed because this was South Africa and of course there were black people here. Then I realized we had not seen a lot of them in Cape Town and that was why Ein had made that comment. It was nevertheless a stereotypical remark. We as tourists did not sense the day to day frustration of living in South Africa. What we saw were what the country wanted tourists to see. However, from my conversations with some local residents, I realized that there was a growing level of frustration among the South Africans. The unemployment rate in this country is in the 40% range. HIV infection rate is very high in this country too -- approximately 40% of sexually active population is estimated to be HIV+. One of our tour guides told us that the Minister of Health in South Africa, Manto Tshabalala-Msimang, recently urged the HIV+ patients to eat more fruits and vegetables as these food groups can help kill the virus. Can someone please tell me how this woman got the job!? Overall, South Africa is still a country with a lot of social and health problems to overcome. But as a tourist who want to expand his or her horizons, this is definitely the country to visit. It offers you a unique experience (good or bad) that only a few other countries can offer.

Save the minor dramas here and there, all of us had a wonderful time on this trip, and I am proud to have organized it. It gives me the confidence to be a tour guide if my day job does not work out as planned.