Monday, September 21, 2009

Trip Report: Eating My Way Through Taipei


Street food rules in Taipei. It is said that you can go up to 30 days trying all the street food here without having to repeat eating anything. While I very much would like to put this statement to the test, I only had a few short days here so I tried my best to pack in as much street food as possible. I also had a few restaurant meals which were equally good. Here are some of my favorites.

1. Soymilk, Sticky Rice Roll and Fried/Baked Dough

There is nothing like some greasy fried/baked dough, sticky rice roll and savory soymilk to kickstart your day. The common form of the fried/baked dough are dan bing (egg pancake) and shao bing (charcoal baked pastry). The sticky rice roll (Fan Duan) has a bunch of things in it, like meat floss, egg and a very crispy dough. The soymilk can be eaten sweet or savory. This is probably what heaven is made of (for me at least). There are many places in Taipei that you can get this kind of breakfast, like Si Hai Dou Jiang (literally translated as "Four Seas Soymilk") which has many locations including one in the LA area. My personal favorite is Fu Hang Dou Jiang located on the 2nd floor of a market called Hua Shan Market on Zhong Xiao Dong Lu (East Zhong Xiao Road), a couple of blocks from the Sheraton Taipei. The line can get really long here and they usually sell everything out by 9am or so.

I also recommend a place that specializes in sticky rice rolls (Fan Duan). The rice roll pictured above may not look appetizing at all and may look like your doodle after one too many glasses of grape soda. but it's actually nutritious and tasty. This is a sticky rice roll made of purple-black colored grain, one of the many varieties of Fan Duan sold at Liu Ma Ma Fan Duan ("Mother Liu's Sticky Rice Roll") located on 88 Hang Zhou Nan Lu (88 South Hang Zhou Road), not far from the Gu Ting MTR stop (take exit 6 then walk 3 mins)

2. Noodles and Dumplings

There is this noodle that I particularly liked called Yang Chun Noodles that you can get from many street vendors in Taipei. I enjoyed eating it with the freshly made pork dumplings.

3. Buns, Buns and Buns

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Here in Taipei, you can get all kinds of buns (actually, more of the baked ones than the steamed ones). My personal favorites are Xie Ke Huang (literally translated as "Crab Shell Yolk") and Hu Jiao Bing (peppered pork buns). The former usually comes in three varieties. Spring onion filing makes up the savory variety while black sesame and red bean filing make up the sweet varieties. There is just one kind of Hu Jiao Bing. Its juicy peppered pork filling is so good that it will make you crave for another one even though you have just had the first bite of your first one. That's how good it is.

A place with over 40 years of history sells one of the best Xie Ke Huang in the city. It's called "Su Hang Dian Xin Dian" located on 14 Luo Shi Fu Lu Er Duan (2nd part of Luo Shi Fu Road), close to the Gu Ting MRT stop (take exit 7 then walk 2 mins).

My recommendation on where to buy Hu Jiao Bing is a little corner shop next to the Shuang Lian MRT stop. It doesn't seem to have a shop name but you can see people waiting on line to buy the famous pastry. The address is 64 Min Sheng Xi Lu (Min Sheng West Road). Take exit 1 at the Shuang Lian MRT stop and you will see it.

4. Fried Chicken

Who doesn't like himself some frrriiieeeed chic-ken (with a southern drawl)? In Taipei, you can get Xian Su Ji (literally translated as "Salty Fried Chicken") on almost every street corner. Beside the Xian Su Ji which comes in bits, the vendors also sell chicken chops and other heavenly fried food.

5. Steamed Buns

Known as Ge Bao (which literally means "cut buns"), it's a steamed white buns (think soft tacos but much thicker) with pork slices, preserved cabbage, peanuts bits and cilantro in the middle. There is a place called Lan Se Ge Bao ("Blue House Cut Buns") located close to the Gong Guan MRT stop that is known for this traditional bun.

Famous Japanese ramen places in New York like Momofuku and Ippudo were inspired by it and started offering similar items on their menus at ten times its price.

6. New Age Szechuan Cuisine

Many Taiwanese celebrities open restaurants, but the most popular of the bunch is a restaurant opened by a former Taiwanese female singer called Kiki that serves new style Szechuan cuisine. The restaurant has multiple locations in Taipei so check out its website (www.kiki1991.com). I highly recommend the Cang Ying Tou dish (a chives dish literally translated as "The head of the fly") and a special steamed fish dish.

7. Braised Pork Rice

Lu Rou Fan (braised pork rice) is perhaps one of the most popular street and restaurant food in Taipei. It comes in a bowl of white rice (sorry health nuts, no brown rice is served with this) topped with tasty bits of pork braised in a brown sauce. It usually goes with side dishes like braised eggs and tofu. You can get Lo Rou Fan in many places, but the one that I frequent is this restaurant located within walking distance of the Shuang Lian MRT station (two mins walk from exit 2). The address is 5 Shuang Lian Jie (5 Shuang Lian Street).

8. Bubble Tea

Bubble tea and other tapioca based beverages are still very popular here. Right now the most popular one is called Qing Wa Zhuang Nai which literally means "frog hits the milk". What makes this beverage such a hit (no pun intended) right now is its tapioca, which is made with palm sugar and is more chewy than the regular tapioca. The milk simply enhances the taste of the tapioca. There is this place near the Gong Guan MRT station that usually has a long line of people waiting to order this drink. It's located on Luo Si Fu Lu (Luo Si Fu Road).

9. Longan Walnut Muffins (Gui Yuan Xiao Dan Gao)

Think Banana Walnut Muffins without the banana flavor and bits. They have been replaced by Longan (literally translated as "Dragon Eye"), a topical fruit that belongs in the same family as Lychee. You can get this muffin from any bakery in Taipei since it's very popular right now.

A majority of the food or beverage items that I mentioned above can be found in any of the outdoor night markets in Taipei, including the famous Shilin Night Market. Just make sure you starve yourself for a day before you go there!





Tuesday, September 8, 2009

Flight Report: All Nippon Airways (NH5) LAX-NRT

Date: Sep 5, 2009

Travel Class: Business

Flight Time: 10 hours 50 minutes



Check in at the Tom Bradley International Terminal was a breeze. I had booked a first class award travel ticket but only business class seats were available for this sector when I made the very last minute booking (had to go to Taipei for a funeral). I inquired with the check-in desk supervisor if she could move me up to first class if there was a seat available. Unfortunately there wasn’t. However, the apologetic supervisor blocked the business class seat next to me to make sure I have a good and uninterrupted rest during the flight. Great service from the ground staff!

Headed straight to the Star Alliance lounge (which is relatively new) after check in. While the facilities are top notch (including shower and free wireless internet access), the food choices have some room for improvement.

Boarding was carried out in a quick and orderly fashion (must be the Japanese culture). Surprisingly, no on-board drinks were handed out. It was done only after take off, followed by handing out of the menu. The menu features a Japanese set meal and several Western selections for the meal service after take off. There is also a light meal option that passengers can order up to one and a half hours before landing at Tokyo Narita airport.

Here’s the menu:

Kaiseki Course

Zensai

Simmered prawn, Golden brown scallop, Salt-grilled saury fish, Fishcake with beans, Flowery sweet vinegared turnip.

Kobachi

Braised tofu and vegetable patty in savory daikon radish soy sauce

Shusai

Braised duck breast and vegetavbles in special soy sauce

Sunomono

Octopus and surf clam salad tossed with Tosa vinegar

Steamed Rice

Miso Soup and assorted pickles

Dessert

ANA’s original parfait, mixed berries a la mode

Fresh seasonal fruit

Cheese

International Course

Starter

Pork pate Provencale withy marinated artichoke and fresh garden salad

Entrée Choice

Pan-fried beef tenderloin with onion confit and demi-glace

Sesame crusted sea bream withy herb olive sauce

Autumn vegetable quiche with creamy broccoli puree

Two kinds of bread with a choice of flavorful premium Isigny butter or extra-virgin olive oil

Dessert

ANA’s original parfait, mixed berries a la mode

Fresh seasonal fruit

Cheese

Light Meals Anytime

Light Dishes and Snacks

Bowl of hot Japanese udon noodles with kitsune garnish

Warm, homey rice ball with caramelized kombu kelp filling and miso soup

Dim-sum Chinese (two kinds of steamed chicken dumpling)

Toasted port cutlet sandwich

Cup of hot consommé soup

Petite Japanese Set

Bowl of rice topped with seasoned salmon flakes and soy-cured salmon roe

Assortment of Japanese delicacies

Fruit yogurt

Petite International Set

Classic beef stew in red wine sauce

Bread roll

Fruit yogurt

I opted for the Japanese meal set and it was delicious. For mid-flight snack, I ordered the warm, homey rice ball with miso soup and the Chinese dim-sum and they were equally delicious. Before we landed, I ordered the Petite Japanese set (yes, I was hungry) and that was delicious too. I was too busy eating to take any pictures of these meals. Sorry.

AVOD choices were comparable to other top Asian carriers. There was a good number of English, Japanese and world movies and TV programs to choose from. I watched “State of Play” starring Ben Affleck and Russell Crowe and the plot was riveting. It was bed time after my meal and movie and I slept for four solid hours. The seat cushion was comfortable compared to other angled lie flat seats in the airline industry.

The inflight service was not as attentive as that of Asiana Airlines or Singapore Airlines. However, it was far superior than that of the US and European carriers. I did notice that the Japanese cabin crew was much more conversational with the Japanese passengers than other passengers. Perhaps they felt more comfortable speaking their native language than English.

I also had the opportunity to check out the Premium Economy seats which consisted of two rows (2X3X2 configuration) between the Business Class and Economy Class section. The seats looked pretty comfortable and there was plenty of legroom compared to Economy class seat.

All in all this was a good flight. I would highly recommend this airline for your future travels to Japan and other Asian countries.

More pictures of the inflight cabin including the seat.