Weep for me Argentina, for this diva is leaving town!
I think I should be doing the crying actually. After my week-long trip to Buenos Aires and Iguazu Falls, I really find it hard to leave these two wonderful places.
Buenos Aires reminds me of a European city like Paris or Madrid. Never mind the dog poops on the sidewalk, this Port City of Argentina is beautiful, energetic and seductive in every sense. From the cobbled streets to the old cafes, travelers will get to experience and appreciate the uniqueness of this city that the Portenos (a term used when referring to the locals, it means "People of the Port") take so much pride in. In fact, the Portenos look very European too, mainly due to their Italian and Spanish roots. These folks are mighty attractive.
I was really looking forward to Buenos Aires after having spent a few days in Santiago (honestly Santiago is nothing to write home about). Actually, to be fair to Santiago, Bush was there for the APEC meeting when I was there so naturally there were many anti-war protests. I did not enjoy the choas, road blocks and the closure of numerous important tourist attractions (just because Bush was dining in the vicinity). I left Santiago with slight disappointment and was hoping to have a much better time in Buenos Aires since it was Bush-free and all. Sure enough I did.
Where to start? First of all I did what a typical tourist would do. I checked out Casa Rosada, attended a performance at the Teatro Colon, visited the sunday market at San Telmo, saw Eva Peron's graveyard at the Recoleta Cemetery, went to Eva Peron's museum in the Polermo district (that woman had some outstanding outfits I have to say), enjoyed a traditional tango performance at the historical Cafe Tortoni and purchased a leather jacket from my favorite store Bensimon (www.bensimon.com).
The Portenos lead a Spaniard lifestyle. They don't have dinner until 10pm or so and they stay up until 2am-3am even on a week night. You will feel this late-night vibrancy if you stay in the Palermo Viejo area. There are many great boutique hotels and B&Bs here. One of my favorite is the Malabia House (www.malabiahouse.com.ar). Book early and it tends to fill up quickly. If you desire more elegance and tranquility, you should consider staying in the Recoleta district. The century old buildings here will no doubt remind you of the buildings in old European cities like Paris or Madrid.
As expected I partied a lot in Buenos Aires. I also ate a lot. Meals in Buenos Aires are very inexpensive. A nice meal consisting of grilled meats and a bottle of wine at a local restaurant would cost you USD8-10 or so. My most humble and memorable experience in Buenos Aires would be a dinner I had at a local steak/buffet house. Since I didn't speak any Spanish and the staff there didn't speak much English, I had problem ordering from the menu. The owner of the restaurant, an asian lady, came out and started conversing with me in Spanish. I gave it a shot and asked if she understood Mandarin. She did and we started conversing in Mandarin. She told me how she came to this country from China and started working as a cashier at a grocery store (and her experience during the riot in the city). She saved up enough money to open this restaurant. It may be a classic immigrant story, but for an Asian like me who does not exhibit any positive Asian stereotypes such as hardworking, smart and modest, I find this story awe-inspiring. Ha ha!
No trip to Buenos Aires is perfect without a side trip to Iguazu Falls. Stretching along the borders of Argentina, Paraguay and Brazil, this famous fall is often chosen by many as a side trip destination when visiting Buenos Aires. A modern circuit of footbridges and natural paths allow visitors to penetrate into the dense jungle, as well as to contemplate the fall of the water from inside the cascades. There are boat trips that will take you to the biggest waterfall (The Devil's Throat) that reaches a 80m height. You can also travel to the Brazilian side (you will need a visa) to enjoy the spectacular views of the fall. Believe me, Iguazu Falls put Niagara Falls to shame. The falls are located in Puerto Iguazu which is a 2 hour flight from Buenos Aires.
If you get a chance, please visit Buenos Aires and Iguazu Falls soon. Enjoy the devaluation of the country's currency (Peso) before the country becomes a more expensive place to visit. I guarantee you will have a blast here. I sure did. In fact, I am planning on another trip down there soon. The clothes at Bensimon are calling me...
